This SS12 is proving that modesty really is the best policy. Seen across the womenswear spectrum, creating an air of intrigue, with buttoned up blouses and knee or floor skimming dresses and skirts showing that less is more in the case of this seasons fashion. Designers such as Erdem, Margaret Howell and Comme Des Garçon were among those who opted for this more covered up trend. withclinical white shirts recreated with soft patterns and demure florals for a sophisticated, vintage feel. Sleeves are worn long and tapered, buttoned up at the cuffs capturing the essence of the workwear aesthetic. Seen most prominently in the deliciously streamlined collection of Jil Sander, that saw Raf Simmons take the collection in a new puritan inspired direction exuding simple reserve Deriving from the notion of femininity, the umbrella silhouette has made more than it’s fair share of appearances this season. With a-line cuts, pleats and soft, flowing fabrics, that are cinched-in at the waist, that come in a palette of muted tones of pastel pinks and moss greens, creating a youthful edge for this very reserved trend. Menswear has also been included in this season’s penchant for more coverage, with designer such as Dior Homme, Alexander Mcqueen and Balenciaga advocating elegant, to the neck shirts and masculine cuts that are the epitome of classic British reserve. Images from: style.com |
Showing posts with label Fashion Week. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Fashion Week. Show all posts
15/10/2011
More Is The New Less
Paris Fashion Week SS12: The Highlights
As the last of the Fashion Weeks, expectations always run high at Paris Fashion Week.  A particular point of focus was on the debut womenswear collection from American rapper Kanye West and John Galliano’s S/S12 show (minus the namesake designer.) An array of stylistic contrasts were offered up to the Parisian elite; some designers such as Pedro Lourence opting for the epitome of twenties opulence with dropped waist dresses and flowing fringed skirts. Others like Veronique Leroy preferred a more minimalistic elegance, creating a collection of crisp white shirts and fishing-net crochet techniques. Swedish designer Maison Martin Margiela created a conceptual collection that oozed nonchalantcoolness. Seemingly deconstructed pieces, exposed zips and seams came down the runway. Models were draped in illustrious silks and chiffons, creating dresses, skirts, and trousers all with vertical silhouettes. Leather was also prominent in his skirts and tunic tops, adding the raw edge that is known and loved in his signature designs. Doing what she does best Stella McCartney created a classically comfortable and wearable collection, with just a hint of the sex appeal that has given new life to her designs. White opened the collection (a prominent color for the season), which then transitioned into intricate microprints taken from the designs of mens ties, that were printed onto mini dresses, with asymmetrical mesh under garments. Paisley lace was interjected into all in ones, whilst trouser suits were turned into a far more soft interpretation with decorations adorning the lapels.  Architectural detailing was key to Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci’s collection, appearing on structured lapels and gravity defying ruffles. Tailoring this season was sharp and precise, with suits coming down the runway in cream, black, blush, and even silver sequins. But the meticulously designed tailoring within the collection was softened by sleeveless tuxedo dresses and chiffon tunic dresses that fell close to the body in tiered layers, resulting in a collection where a romance of colors and fabrics intertwined in a beautiful inexplicable way.Undoubtedly one of the most highly anticipated shows of Paris Fashion Week; Phoebe Philo at Celine SS12’s collection exuded a fragility and simplicity that was not only inspiring but wholly encapsulating. Clean lines were key, with inspiration taken from couture sixties silhouettes that were given a modern twist. Oversized pieces were also key - whether they were jackets or trousers; there was still the presence of contours and structure through cinched in waistlines. Although darker than anticipated for spring, Philo’s choice of color palette was punctuated with exuberant whites and unlike most of the SS12 collections; there were no prints, which allowed the structural details of each piece to remain the focus.  “Modernity is beauty” this quote by Alber Elbaz’s echoed his SS12 collection for Lanvin. New territory wascrossed for the designer; known for dazzling dresses, this season Elbaz changed tact and took on the suit. Masculine structures were given a feminine touch; side slits were inserted onto the seams of black trousers, high waisted pencil skirts in dark petrol green were accompanied by silk rose colored tops with slits down the sides, whilst tuxedo jackets came with built up shoulders, giving a far more androgynous feel. In addition to this harder, masculine look came the essence of gothic drama with exaggerated pearl-encrusted crucifixes, eagle rings or belt buckles, and heavily embellished necklines formed of snaking serpent bodies that were also used down the sides of asymmetrical dresses. There is no denying that Paris is the most sumptuously sort after platforms for designers to showcase their collection and who could blame them? Luxury and lavishness exude from the Queen of fashion capitals, where the fashion elite knows everyone who is someone and where everyone wants to be recognized as that someone. http://www.bbmlive.com/fashion-news/paris-fashion-week-ss12.html |
Milan Fashion Week SS12: The Highlights
As Milan Fashion Week comes to an end the whirlwind of excitement is tangible. There was a mixture of feminine floral prints seen in the collections of Moschino Cheap & Chic to the more demure minimalistic sports chic given to us by Max Mara with translucent crop tops in delicate silks. The likes of Versace and D&G opted for bold prints that would make any one stand out from the crowd in homage to the swinging 70s. But that wasn’t all, Milan fashion week offered up an exciting array of designers and their SS12 collections.  Whites in Milan were a key trend for many designers this season. Solid, clean-cut lines and classic shapes were Designers staple silhouettes for their collections. Marni and Jil Sanders chose chic simplicity that was defined through classic, clean, defined lines with a sense of purity, while Nicolas Andreas Taralis mesmerized audiences with his signature monochrome palette that was the epitome of nineties minimalism.If there’s one trend that Milan excels at it’s footwear and this season was no exception. Not for the faint-hearted, designers sent their models down the runways in Perspex exaggerated heels at glamorous Versace. Prada took footwear inspiration from Cadillac wedges, with ornate flames shooting from them. In contrast Bottega Venetta took a more feminine approach to the footwear, instead using kitten heeled sling backs to compliment the collection of leather skirts and dresses awash with PVC.  The roaring Twenties also made a welcomed appearance this SS12. The essence of Flapper girls oozed from many designers collections, with Gucci setting the tone with a black and gold Great Gatsby- inspired collection of fringed gold and black cocktail dresses with Art Deco-inspired beading. Etro quickly followed suit, encompassing the colourful, confident Twenties chic with gloriously glistening drop waisted dresses, in a kaleidoscope of colors. It wasn’t only the clothes that set the Twenties trend off but also the accessories as seen on Emporio Armani’s models donning cloche hats. While Roberto Cavalli had models walking down the runways with flapper curls and bobbed hair echoing the classic Twenties Jazz Age. Feminine florals in bright, brash and bold prints and colors were present in many of the collections at Milan Fashion Week this season with Marni’s 60’s inspired florals being a central protagonist to the trend that came in delicate shades of pastel. In comparison Antonio Marras chose monochrome with splashes of fushcia to add vibrancy. Not to be outshone Dolce & Gabbana’s combination of florals and food inspired collection paired aubergine prints with jackets covered in floral appliqué. While Blugirl and Roberto Cavalli found inspiration in a mixture of exotic jungle prints and sequin smothered blazers to dressers strewn in a luscious, golden glamour embodying both designers’ ultra luxe personas. A real mix of indulgent flamboyance and understated chic has come through this season, with no two designers having clashing or repetitive collections. There has instead been a beautiful fluidity between the ultra luxe and demure designs that have graced the catwalks; giving Milan its rightful title of the fashion capital of the World.  |
Meadham Kirchoff
 Along side this whirlwind of fun came leather jackets tailored to perfection, mixed with tartan gymslips and lace-edged brocade dresses all in the most sugary sweetest of colors. Finally the duo had exaggerated shoulders and hips that had the faintest essence of avant-garde nonchalance that accentuated the shape of the huge ruffle-bottomed lace knickers and puff ball sleeves that were seen through out the collection. http://www.bbmlive.com/fashion-news/london-fashion-week-springsummer-2012.html |
Christopher Kane
 As to be expected from Christopher Kane, he wowed audiences as usual with his ‘girls from the council estate’ inspired collection. Moving on from his AW11 collection of minimalist structures paired with an eccentric neon spectrum Kane has matured this collection into luscious sky blue florals and enchanting pastel palettes that create a certain majestic aura that encapsulates the audience initially. Structured shaping and pieces tailored to perfection came effortlessly down the run way by the way of dresses in cool grey cotton, mixed with delicate leathers, sharp cigarette pants, along with tailored shorts and sixties inspired mini skirts, teamed with neat box jackets to create a cool but classic look. Moving on from last season’s body-con Kane brought us high-necked maxis that floated so effortlessly down the runway, a twist added with slashes from the collar bone to just above the bra line. These were mixed in amongst demure preppy cricket vests over casual, yet still sophisticated shorts. This season it is quite clearly the time to be cheerful as the dynamic duo Meadham Kirchhoff have proven once again. Cascades of pale blue and pink balloons bobbed across the floor of the runway in unison with silky pink slips, dolly birds and matching tights all managing to gather themselves to expose subtle neon straps in the process. http://www.bbmlive.com/fashion-news |
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